House Mice Extermination & Exclusion Richmond VA

If you have lived in Richmond for any length of time, you know that mice are more than just a nuisance, they are a constant battle especially in the winter. The common House Mouse has spent a very long time learning how to benefit from us. They depend on our homes for warmth, shelter, food. When you need pest control for mice, it’s usually because these tiny invaders have turned your sanctuary into their nesting ground.

It’s easy to confuse a house mouse with a young rat or a field mouse, but there are a few key ways to tell them apart:

• Color: They are typically dusty grey with an off white underside.

• Size: An adult is small, usually 2.5 to 4 inches long (not including the tail).

• The Tail: Their tail is just as long as their body, if not longer, and it is mostly hairless.

• Features: Look for large ears and small, dark, beady eyes. Unlike rats, which have blunt snouts, mice have slightly more pointed faces.

One of the most frustrating things about mice extermination is how easily they enter a home. Because they lack collateral bones (collar bones) and they can compress their rib cage, they can fit through a hole the size of a dime. Thats the official statement but anyone who has worked in the field knows better. I have seen mice squeeze through entry points no wider than a pencil. However, mice have a very high metabolism and need to conserve energy however they can. They would rather find the path of least resistance when getting into your house. Those common entry points can be but are certainly not limited to;

• Foundation Vents: Screens that are rusted, broken, or improperly fitted.

• Utility Gaps: Small openings around plumbing pipes, AC lines, or electrical wires.

• Garage Doors: If you can see daylight under your garage door, a mouse sees a front-row seat to your house.

• Foundation Cracks: Even a hairline fracture in an older Richmond brick foundation can be chewed into an entryway.

This is why sealing the house for mice is just as important as setting traps. If you don't close the door, more will keep getting in year after year.

Mice are more than just "cute" little animals; they are a health hazard. They are incontinent, which means they leave a trail of urine and droppings everywhere they walk.

Because they are looking for food, this waste often ends up in sensitive areas:

• Kitchens: Behind stoves, in pantries, and even on food prep counters.

• Storage: They love nesting in the insulation of your crawl space, attic or even inside the cushions of a couch.

• Pantries: They will eat almost anything. While they prefer grains and seeds, they have no problem chewing through plastic bags or cardboard boxes to get into your cereal, crackers, or pet food.

Because they spend their time in sewers, crawl spaces, and trash, they bring a lot of filth with them. Here are the main health concerns they bring into Richmond homes:

• Hantavirus: This is a serious respiratory disease that humans can get just by breathing in dust that has been contaminated with mouse urine or droppings.

• Salmonellosis: Since mice love to walk across kitchen counters and through your pantry, they often spread Salmonella bacteria. This leads to food poisoning.

• Lymphocytic Choriomeningitis (LCMV): This is a viral infection carried by the common house mouse that can cause serious neurological issues if it’s passed to humans through bites or contact with waste.

• Secondary Pests: Mice are like little public buses for insects. They carry ticks, fleas, and mites on their fur. You might successfully get rid of the mice, only to find yourself dealing with a flea infestation or mites in your carpet a week later.

Getting rid of mice isn't just about throwing a few traps on the floor. It’s a strategic process that involves "thinking like a mouse" to figure out how they got in and how to make them leave. In my 14 years in the field, I’ve found that a three-step approach is the only way to get lasting results.

The inspection is the most important part of the process. I don't just look for the mice; I look for how theyre getting in. These areas incude but are not limited to;

• Behind stoves and refrigerators.
• Under kitchen and bathroom sinks.
• Inside laundry rooms and utility closets.
• Throughout the garage, basement, crawl space.

By finding where the droppings are, I can see the big picture. For example, if they are in your pantry, the entry point is usually only a few feet away. Mice are lazy and tend to stay close to their food source once they find it.

While I’m looking for where they get in, I’m also looking for what mightve attracted them. You’d be surprised how often a mouse problem starts with something the homeowner thinks is harmless.

• Bird Seed and Pet Food: Keeping an open bag of bird seed or extra dog food in the garage or a mudroom is giving them a reason to keep coming in. These are high-reward items for mice. Even if the bag is sealed with a clip, they can smell it and will chew right through the plastic or paper.

• Improper Storage: Storing lawn seed or grains in the garage is another issue. These items are like magnets for mice in the fall when the weather starts to turn.

Part of my job is pointing these things out to you. Sometimes, simply moving a bag of bird seed into a metal trash can with a tight lid is enough to make the mice decide your neighbor's house looks a lot more promising than yours.

Once I know where they are spending their time, I walk the exterior foundation of your home to find out how they are getting in. When I find a gap, I seal it using steel wool.

I use steel wool because it’s a physical deterrent that works on two levels. First, it’s a tough barrier. Second, if a mouse tries to chew through it, the sharp fibers will cut its nose. Because mice follow the path of least resistance, they usually give up immediately rather than trying to fight through it.

There is one extra step I take that most other companies usually just leave up to you. I clean up the existing droppings before I set any bait. I do this for two very important reasons. First, it’s just the right thing to do and Im happy to do it. Nobody wants old mouse crap sitting in their pantry or utility room. Second, it’s just another way I visually track my progress.

The professional bait I use has a unique feature—it turns the mouse droppings bright red after they eat it. By starting with a clean slate, I can tell exactly what happened while I was gone. If I see new red droppings, I know the mice have been eating the bait. Its also a visual indicator to you, of progress being made. Not many solutions to problems in this industry have that benefit.

After the house is sealedand everything is cleaned up, I take care of the mice that are already inside. I use RTUs (Ready-To-Use) tamper-resistant bait stations. These are safe to have around the home and are loaded a highly attractive bait that mice can't resist.

• Why Corners? Mice have very poor eyesight, so they navigate by hugging walls and baseboards. When they hit a corner, they have to stop or slow down. That’s exactly where I place the stations to make sure the mouse finds them.

• The "Slow Kill" Advantage: I have found that alot of home owners are unsure of baiting and I understand why. Fortunately the bait that I use doesn't work very quick. It works over a few days and one of its side effects is dehydration. When the mouse starts to feel thirsty, its natural instinct is to leave the nest (your house) to find water outside or in a crawl space. In 14 years, I have never seen a mouse die inside a living area after eating this bait.

My job isn't done after the first visit. We'll have to schedule follow-up services to check the activity levels. If the bait is gone, I’ll refill it. If I see signs of a new entry point being tested, I’ll do another sweep and seal it off.

My goal isn't just to take care of the ones you have now—it’s to make sure your home is no longer an easy target for future mice infestations.

I know that some people just don't want bait stations in their house. Whether you’re worried about a mouse dying in a wall or you just want a more "humane" and immediate solution, snap traps are the way to go. If you have the time and the patience, you can absolutely handle a small mouse problem on your own.

Here is exactly how I would do it if I were in your shoes.

If you’re going to seal your own house, do it the right way. I see a lot of people try to use that gap filler spray foam from the hardware store. Don’t do it. They will chew through it in seconds and can end up using it as nesting material.

Stick to real steel wool (not the soapy Brillo pads). Stuff it tightly into any gaps you find. It’s the one thing they won't want to chew on. Remember , if its the diameter size of a pencil, they can get into it.

Most people just put a glob of peanut butter on a trap and hope for the best. Sometimes that works, but if you want to be efficient, follow the evidence.

Look at what they’ve already been eating in your pantry. If they’ve been into your cereal, use a piece of that cereal. If they’re eating bird seed, use that. Here’s the secret trick: Use a tiny dab of super glue to stick that piece of food to the trigger of the trap. This forces the mouse to actually tug on the trigger rather than just licking the bait off and walking away.

Mice can jump nearly a foot into the air. If they sense a trap in their path, they might just hop right over it.

To avoid this, double or triple up. Place two or three traps side-by-side right against the base board in a corner. If they try to jump over the first one, they’ll land right on the second or third one. It takes away their path of least resistance and ensures the job gets done.

Mice aren't as shy as rats, but they can still be nervous about new things introduced to an enviroment theyre comfortable with. If you don't catch anything the first night, DO NOT move the traps yet. Give it a few days for them to get used to the traps being there.

If you try all of this and you’re still hearing scratching in the walls or finding new droppings, then it’s time to call in a professional. I’m always here to step in and finish the job if the "DIY" route becomes too much of a headache.